In honor of Betty Ann Olney

Special equipment: a 9-inch pie plate (4-cup capacity)

Prebake pie dough in pie plate according to package instructions, then remove from oven and reduce temperature to 350°F.
Meanwhile, halve leeks lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces, then wash well in a bowl of cold water, agitating leeks. Lift out and drain leeks in a colander and pat dry. Melt butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat and cook leeks, stirring occasionally, until very tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
Line warm pie shell with sliced ham, overlapping layers as necessary to cover bottom and side of pie shell completely. Toss cheeses together and sprinkle evenly into pie shell (do not pack cheese), then spread leeks evenly on top of cheese. Whisk together eggs, nutmeg, and pepper until combined well, then whisk in crème fraîche until smooth.
Carefully pour half of custard on top of pie filling, gently moving cheese with a spoon to help custard disperse evenly. Slowly add remaining custard in same manner. Cover pie loosely with foil, gently folding edges over crust (keep foil from touching top of cheese mixture) and transfer to a baking sheet.
Bake until center of filling is puffed and set (center will be slightly wobbly but not liquid), about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Cool on a rack at least 20 to 30 minutes before serving (filling will continue to set as it cools). Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cooks' note:
Quiche can be made 3 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, wrapped in plastic wrap. Reheat quiche (uncovered) in a 350?F oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes.

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Chicken in Riesling
1 whole chicken (about 3 1/2 pound), backbone discarded and chicken cut French style into 8 pieces (see cooks' note, below)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
4 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only), finely chopped (2 cups)
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
4 medium carrots, halved diagonally
1 cup dry white wine (preferably Alsatian Riesling)
1 1/2 pound small (2-inch) red potatoes
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Fresh lemon juice to taste

Preheat oven to 350F with rack in middle.
Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and a rounded 3/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat oil with 1 tablespoon butter in a wide 3 1/2- to 5-quart heavy ovenproof pot over medium-high heat until foam subsides, then brown chicken in 2 batches, turning once, about 10 minutes total per batch. Transfer to a plate.
Meanwhile, wash leeks and pat dry.
Pour off fat from pot, then cook leeks, shallot, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until leeks are pale golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add chicken, skin sides up, with any juices from plate, carrots, and wine and boil until liquid is reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Cover pot and braise chicken in oven until cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes.
While chicken braises, peel potatoes, then generously cover with cold water in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer until potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes. Drain in a colander, then return to saucepan. Add parsley and shake to coat.
Stir crème fraîche into chicken mixture and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, then add potatoes.

Cooks' note:
A chicken cut French style yields 2 breast halves with wings attached, halved crosswise for a total of 4 breast pieces, 2 drumsticks, and 2 thighs. If you don't want to cut up a whole chicken, you can use 3 pounds chicken parts.

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Beef Wellington with Gorgonzola
four 1 1/2-inch-thick center-cut filets mignons (about 6 ounces each)
4 large mushrooms (about 1/4 pound total)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 large egg
1 puff pastry sheet (from a 17 1/4-ounce package frozen puff pastry), thawed
4 tablespoons Gorgonzola cheese (about 2 1/2 ounces)

For sauce
1 cup veal or beef demiglace
2 tablespoons Sercial Madeira

Preheat oven to 425?F.
Pat filets mignons dry and season with salt and pepper. In a shallow roasting pan roast filets in middle of oven 12 minutes, or until a meat thermometer registers 110?F for rare, and cool (filets will be baked again after being wrapped in pastry). Chill filets, covered, until cold, about 1 hour.
Thinly slice mushrooms and in a heavy skillet cook in butter with shallot, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste over moderate heat, stirring, until mushrooms are lightly browned. Transfer mushroom mixture to a bowl to cool completely. In a small bowl lightly beat egg to make an egg wash.
On a lightly floured surface roll out puff pastry sheet into a 14-inch square. Trim edges to form a 13-inch square and cut square into four 61/2-inch squares.
Put 1 tablespoon Gorgonzola in center of 1 square and top with one fourth mushroom mixture. Top mushroom mixture with a filet mignon, pressing it down gently, and wrap 2 opposite corners of puff pastry over filet, overlapping them. Seal seam with egg wash. Wrap remaining 2 corners of pastry over filet and seal in same manner. Seal any gaps with egg wash and press pastry around filet to enclose completely. Arrange beef Wellington, seam side down, in a non-stick baking pan. Make 3 more beef Wellington in same manner. Chill remaining egg wash for brushing on pastry just before baking. Chill beef Wellington, loosely covered, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.
Preheat oven to 425?F.
Brush top and sides of each beef Wellington with some remaining egg wash and bake 20 minutes, or until pastry is golden.

Make sauce while beef Wellington are baking: In a saucepan boil demiglace and Madeira 1 minute and keep sauce warm.
Serve beef Wellington with sauce.

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Zeke's Tyropitas
2 cups feta cheese
2 cups small-curd cottage cheese, drained
1/4 cup grated Romano cheese
4 large eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons minced parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 box thawed phyllo pastry
2 sticks butter, melted

Make the filling: Fold together the cheeses, eggs, parsley, and salt and pepper in a small bowl.

Assemble the tyropitas: For every 6 turnovers, you should use 2 layers of phyllo, liberally brushing each layer with melted butter. To assemble, start at the shorter end of the phyllo rectangle and cut into 6 even strips. Beginning at the far left lower corner of each strip, place 1/2 teaspoon of filling, and like folding an American flag, begin making right-angle turns until you have reached the end of the strip and you have a triangle-shaped pastry. Brush the turnovers liberally with butter and place them on wax paper. When all the triangles have been made, place them between layers of wax paper in a box or snap-top container and freeze. They can also be baked and eaten right away.
Preheat your oven to 400°F, and bake the pastries for 12 minutes on an ungreased cookie sheet (they already have enough butter). If they have been frozen they can go directly from the freezer to the oven for 20 minutes. They will be a pale golden color and very hot inside, so be careful with the first bite!

Phyllo Dough Working with phyllo dough can be a frustrating experience if you ignore one important rule: Always defrost the dough slowly, overnight in your refrigerator. If you try to rush it you will lose half a box to sticky layers. Always keep the phyllo covered with a dry kitchen towel while working with it and brush layers liberally with melted butter.

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Tuscan Beans in Summery Tomato Ragù
1 pounds dried cannellini or Great Northern beans, picked over and rinsed
2 pints grape tomatoes (about 1 pound)
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 celery rib, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
3 thyme sprigs
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Accompaniment: crusty bread

Soak beans in water to cover by 2 inches overnight (8 hours) or quick-soak (see cooks? note, below), then drain.
Cover beans with water by 2 inches in a 5-to 6-quart pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and briskly simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally and skimming foam, until beans are very tender, 40 to 50 minutes. Reserve 2 cups cooking water, then drain beans.
Halve 1 cup tomatoes lengthwise and set aside. Pulse remaining tomatoes in a food processor until almost smooth.
Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in middle.
Cook onion, celery, and garlic in oil and 1 tablespoon butter with 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in a 12-inch heavy skillet, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add tomato purée, thyme, sugar, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and reserved 2 cups bean-cooking water and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Whisk in remaining tablespoon butter, then stir in beans.
Transfer to a 3-quart shallow baking dish. Sprinkle evenly with cheese, then scatter tomato halves over top. Bake, covered tightly with foil, until liquid is reduced and beans are saucy but not soupy, 25 to 30 minutes. Let stand, covered, 10 minutes before serving (beans will continue to absorb liquid).

What to drink: Avignonesi Rosso di Toscana '05

Cooks' notes:
•To quick-soak beans, cover with water by 2 inches in a 5-to 6-quart heavy pot and bring to a boil, then boil 1 minute. Remove from heat and cover, then soak 1 hour. Drain, discarding water.
•Beans can be cooked 1 day ahead. Cool in liquid, then chill.
•Tomato ragù can be made 1 day ahead and chilled.
•Dish can be assembled (but not baked) 8 hours ahead and chilled.

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South African Curried Lamb Meatloaf
1 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs (from 2 slices firm white sandwich bread)
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 medium onions, finely chopped (2 cups)
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and finely chopped (1 1/2 cups)
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup raisins (1 1/2 ounce)
1/4 cup slivered blanched almonds (1 ounce)
2 tablespoons curry powder (preferably Madras)
1 teaspoon sugar
3 large eggs
2 lb ground lamb or beef (not lean)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Special equipment: a 9- by 9- by 2-inch baking dish (3-qt capacity)
Accompaniment: cooked white rice; mango or cilantro chutney (preferably Swad brand*)
*Available at indianblend.com.

Soak bread crumbs in milk in a small bowl until very soft, about 15 minutes, then drain in a sieve set over a bowl, lightly pressing to remove excess milk. Reserve milk.
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Butter baking dish.
Cook onions, apple, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until onions and apple are softened, about 12 minutes (do not brown). Add raisins, almonds, curry powder, and sugar and cook, stirring, 1 minute, then remove from heat. Lightly beat 1 egg in a large bowl, then add bread crumbs, lamb or beef, raisin mixture, lemon juice and zest, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, and pepper and blend with your hands until combined well; do not overmix. Spread meat mixture evenly in baking dish and bake 30 minutes.
While meatloaf bakes, whisk together remaining 2 eggs, reserved milk, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt.
Pour off excess fat from meatloaf (still in baking dish). Pour egg mixture over meatloaf (much of egg will fill space that has formed around meatloaf), then return to oven and bake until custard is just set, about 15 minutes more.

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Prosciutto with Melon
1 melon, cut into 6 wedges
18 paper-thin prosciutto slices

Place melon wedge on each of 6 plates. Arrange 3 prosciutto slices alongside melon or drape over melon and serve.

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Strawberries in Red Wine
2 cups fruity red wine such as Santa Maddalena, Barbera, Valpolicella, Merlot, or Zinfandel
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
About 1/2 cup sugar
1 lb strawberries (2 pt), trimmed, and halved if large

Stir together wine, lemon juice, and sugar (to taste) in a bowl. Stir in strawberries and let macerate at room temperature 1 hour, then chill until cold, up to 1 hour but no longer. (Fruit will become too soft if it steeps for more than 2 hours.)
Serve berries in small bowls with some of their juices.

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Mango Chutney
3 unripe mangoes (about 3 pounds total)
1/2 cup distilled vinegar
1/3 cup sugar plus additional to taste if mango is very sour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1/4 cup raisins

For seasoning paste
a 1-inch piece fresh gingerroot, peeled
2 fresh Thai (bird) chilies or 1 fresh jalapeño chili
5 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

3-inch piece cinnamon stick
2 star anise
2 tablespoons corn or safflower oil

Peel mangoes and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. In a small bowl toss mangoes with vinegar, sugar, salt, and raisins.

Make seasoning paste: Cut gingerroot into 4 pieces. For a milder chutney, wearing rubber gloves, remove seeds and veins from Thai chilies or jalape?o. To a food processor with motor running add gingerroot, chilies, and remaining seasoning paste ingredients, 1 at a time through feed tube, and pur?e to a paste.
Heat a 4-quart heavy kettle over moderately low heat until hot. Cook seasoning paste, cinnamon stick, and star anise in oil, stirring frequently, 10 minutes, or until very fragrant. Stir in mango mixture and simmer, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until mangoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Discard cinnamon stick and star anise and cool chutney completely. Chutney keeps, covered and chilled, about 1 month.

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